I’ve been contemplating where to mount the InfinityBox inRESERVE components and finally settled on the right side of the battery box. This will provide a short run from the battery positive terminal to the 350A mega fuse (since that is an unprotected wire).

I decided to put the fuse below the latching solenoid to avoid a super-tight bend in the cable from the battery to the fuse. There is a jumper from the other side of the fuse to the side of the latching solenoid.

I cut a 2.25″ long piece of the 2/0 wire and crimped terminals on the ends with the appropriate clocking to mate to the terminals.

I then installed a piece of the heavy-duty heat shrink tubing over the whole assembly. This is essentially rigid now.

Finally, I slipped a couple of boots over the terminals.

After reinstalling the jumper, I drilled and bolted the components to the side of the battery box with some short 1/4-20″ bolts.

While I had the battery box out, I drilled out the holes that pass the battery cables and installed larger rubber grommets. Now the wires can be installed without removing the grommets.

I reinstalled the battery box (hopefully for the last time before final reassembly) and then fabricated and installed the positive battery cable. As you can see, there is a nice, gentle bend from where the cable comes out of the forward side of the battery box to the right side of the mega fuse and there is no way for this cable to contact any other structure in the car.

Inside the battery box, the battery positive cable makes a fairly sharp bend to turn toward the positive terminal. Just like the negative terminal, there is a right-angle terminal on the positive wire, but there is also a right angle protective boot to prevent any contact with the cover plate. I reinstalled the negative cable but will leave it disconnected for now.

You can also see in this picture that I’m temporarily using screws to attach the battery box to the chassis. The heads of these screws are too tall to allow the battery to be installed with all of them in place, so I only installed the aft screw (at the bottom of the picture) and then put in a handful of screws on the forward side of the box for now. After final reassembly, I’ll rivet the box in place and the rivet heads should not interfere with battery installation and removal.

We received our dash buttons from Billet Automotive Buttons; these look awesome.

We also received a small alarm indicator light.

And some turn signal and high beam indicators

For fun, we also ordered a Passenger Eject button with a red LED light. Now I just need to figure out how to eject a passenger :-).

The black heat shrink tubing showed up today, so I crimped on the battery terminal and applied heat shrink tubing to each end.

I reinstalled the ground cable and hooked it up to the battery. The cable has to make a pretty sharp turn to exit the box, so I may reverse the cables or make a different exit hole.

I’ve been working on our electrical system configuration for weeks now and we’re finally happy with the plan. We’re installing the following items from InfinityBox:

• InfinityWire 20-circuit Wiring Harness

• inDASH MAX Dash Lighting Module

• inLINK RF Control Module

• inRESERVE Active Battery Monitoring

This will let us control the following electrical circuits in the car:

Front

• High-beam headlights
• Low-beam headlights
• Parking lights
• Turn signals
• Hazard lights
• Ignition
• Starter
• Heater
• Horn
• Radiator fan
• Electric Power Steering

Back

• Brake lights
• Parking lights
• Turn signals
• Hazard lights
• Seat heaters
• Stereo
• Interior lights
• Trunk light
• inRESERVE solenoid

I purchased some 1.1″ heavy-duty heat-shrink with adhesive for the battery cable connections. After shrinking, this stuff is pretty thick and very tough. Most heat-shrink tubing is more like a rubber sleeve, but this is closer to rigid plastic, so it should provide outstanding strain relief for these terminals.

I then slipped a rubber boot over the end. All power leads will have boots for protection.

This was a pain in the ass to slip over the super-thick heat shrink tubing, but it should work fine.

We ordered our switches tonight from Billet Automotive Buttons in Australia. Samples are shown below. They have four sizes of buttons (16mm, 19mm, 22mm, and 28mm) in both black and stainless and can be custom laser etched with any text or graphics you want. All of our switches will be 22mm, momentary stainless with logos on the button and no text around the edge. We ordered switches with the following logos:

• Low-beam headlight with blue ring
• High-beam headlight with blue ring
• Parking lights with orange ring
• Hazard lights with red ring
• Fan with green ring
• Interior lights with white ring
• Stereo with green ring
• One surprise button we’ll reveal later 🙂

We also ordered the following 14mm indicators:

• High-beam indicator with blue light
• Left and right turn signal arrows with green lights

I also ordered a single 16mm red light with the word “ALARM” laser etched around the edge.

I cleaned off a section of the chassis and ground off the plating from a 5/16″ bolt and clamped it in place.

I welded around the bolt head to create a grounding stud for the battery.

I’m using 2/0 welding cable for the starter and ground cables. I crimped a connector on the end and temporarily routed it to make sure it won’t hit anything. I’ll add some heavy duty heat-shrink tubing over the joint when it arrives.

I temporarily routed the battery positive cable from the right side of the battery box down to the lower right side of the tunnel.

It snakes over the 4″ round cross tube…

…and up the diagonal on the right side of the transmission.

It then drops down the diagonal to the right of the bellhousing and will loop back to the starter. I’m not 100% sure I like this routing. The other option is near the top of the transmission tunnel, but I want to stay away from the parking brake cables and I’d like to keep it separate from the other electrical wires.