I cut back the sleeving on the wiring harness to the front right of the car and put a terminating piece of heat shrink on it to keep it from unraveling. I then cut the horn wire and created a jumper between the horns.

I also installed a grounding point on the forward 3/4″ tubing and grounded the horn there. The lights and fan will also ground here.

The ground wire also jumpers between the two horns.

I also added a grounding point on the left side diagonal chassis member to ground the rear load cell.

I figured out which wires will be routed to the rear lights and put some expandable sleeving over them. I’m routing them over the top of the fuel tank.

I used a solder sleeve to tee the parking light wire and then dropped the wires down behind the tank near the center.

I slipped some expandable sleeving over the bundle of wires going to the front of the car and secured the harness to the firewall to the left of the load cell.

The harness routes under the upper chassis tube and is secured to the outside.

The harness will split at the top of the radiator and route to the various loads at the front of the car: lights, fan, and horn. I went ahead and installed the horns along the upper tubing beside the radiator.

I used some solder sleeves to splice the fusible links into the six wires on the front load cell that need to be indicated on the dash.

I put an extra piece of heat shrink over the solder sleeve to protect them.

I also added a rivnut to the side chassis tubing to  ground the front load cell.

For the dash buttons and indicators, I’m tapping off the power wires on the load cells and running some 22AWG wire  back to the dash. The power wires on the load cells are all 14AWG though and will use various size fuses (many of which will be too large to protect a 22AWG wire). I need to provide protection for these small wire in case they short to ground. Without separate protection for these wires, they could get hot enough to burn before blowing the fuse in the power cell. I could of course use a bunch of inline fuses, but a more reliable and compact way is to use fusible links. A fusible link is nothing more than a short section of smaller wire that will melt before the larger wire can get hot. Like a fuse, this section of smaller wire needs to be enclosed to prevent the melting wire from catching something nearby on fire.

The general rule is to use a section of wire 4 wire gauges smaller than the wire you want to protect. Since I’m using all 22AWG wires from the load cells to the dash, I spliced in a short section of 26AWG wire.

I slipped a section of silicone impregnated fiberglass sleeve over the 26AWG wire. This won’t burn and will contain the heat if the fusible link ever melts.

To keep everything together and limit flexing of the 26AWG wire, I slipped a section of heat shrink over the whole thing.

I fabricated six of these for the loads at the front of the car that I will tap into: headlights (low and high beams), parking lights, turn signals (left and right), and fan.