I continued fitting the aluminum around the passenger side of the cockpit. I temporarily fit the rear outer panel.
The flange on the seat floor needed to be bent out slightly to align with the rear outer panel.
After laying our some holes, I drilled it to the seat floor flange and chassis.
I then fit the small, rear inner panel on the passenger side and drilled it to the seat floor and side of the transmission cover.
I laid out and drilled the holes that tie the inside of the passenger foot box to the forward transmission tunnel cover and seat floor and then drilled the holes that tie the side wall of the transmission tunnel cover to the forward transmission tunnel cover.
The inside wall of the passenger foot box can still move around a bit, so I used some welding magnets to lock it into position so that I can figure out where to cut the floor and where to mount the angles.
While I had the seat floor out, I laid out some holes that will tie it to the transmission tunnel. I still need to fabricate a cover for the old emergency brake access hole.
I laid out a few additional holes near the back of the seat floor.
I’ve been contemplating where to mount the InfinityBox inRESERVE components and finally settled on the right side of the battery box. This will provide a short run from the battery positive terminal to the 350A mega fuse (since that is an unprotected wire).
I decided to put the fuse below the latching solenoid to avoid a super-tight bend in the cable from the battery to the fuse. There is a jumper from the other side of the fuse to the side of the latching solenoid.
I cut a 2.25″ long piece of the 2/0 wire and crimped terminals on the ends with the appropriate clocking to mate to the terminals.
I then installed a piece of the heavy-duty heat shrink tubing over the whole assembly. This is essentially rigid now.
Finally, I slipped a couple of boots over the terminals.
After reinstalling the jumper, I drilled and bolted the components to the side of the battery box with some short 1/4-20″ bolts.
While I had the battery box out, I drilled out the holes that pass the battery cables and installed larger rubber grommets. Now the wires can be installed without removing the grommets.
I reinstalled the battery box (hopefully for the last time before final reassembly) and then fabricated and installed the positive battery cable. As you can see, there is a nice, gentle bend from where the cable comes out of the forward side of the battery box to the right side of the mega fuse and there is no way for this cable to contact any other structure in the car.
Inside the battery box, the battery positive cable makes a fairly sharp bend to turn toward the positive terminal. Just like the negative terminal, there is a right-angle terminal on the positive wire, but there is also a right angle protective boot to prevent any contact with the cover plate. I reinstalled the negative cable but will leave it disconnected for now.
You can also see in this picture that I’m temporarily using screws to attach the battery box to the chassis. The heads of these screws are too tall to allow the battery to be installed with all of them in place, so I only installed the aft screw (at the bottom of the picture) and then put in a handful of screws on the forward side of the box for now. After final reassembly, I’ll rivet the box in place and the rivet heads should not interfere with battery installation and removal.
The aluminum sheet that is normally installed as the floor of the foot boxes fits flush with the bottom of the round tubing that frames the foot boxes. The steel panels that I welded in sit slightly higher than that. This was pushing up on the forward and inside panels of the passenger foot box. I decided to cut off the pre-formed flanges in these pieces so that they could drop down into position. Here, I’ve cut the flanges off the inside panel to the left, but haven’t yet cut the flange off the forward panel to the right. After cutting all of these off, the panels fit much better in the car. I’ll fabricate some mounting angles and rivet them to both the floor and walls.
With the panels fitting much better, I laid out a series of holes along all of the edges and drilled the panels and chassis. I want to drill all of the intersecting panels before drilling this to the floor.
I received a new tool for Christmas from my awesome wife. I have a small hand tool that was fine for setting aluminum rivet nuts, but for the car, I really need to set steel rivet nuts and I knew that it wouldn’t do. This Astro rivet nut drill adapter is highly recommended and has great reviews online.
It’s a really nicely built tool. The body is machined from a solid block of aluminum and it has all chromoly internal components and mandrels for maximum durability. A cordless drill with a clutch is attached to the shaft on the right side and used to set the rivet nut.
It has mandrels for 8 sizes of SAE and metric rivet nuts, but I’m only planning on using three sizes on the car 8-32, 10-24 and 1/4-20 (arranged from top to bottom). I set some samples in a piece of scrap steel to determine the correct torque setting on the drill. The 8-32 rivet nuts are a little short for this thickness of steel, but I’ll probably mostly use them in thinner metal.
I’m using some billet aluminum clamps from Lodestone BilletWorks to secure the fuel lines to the chassis. I clamped a few on to determine where to drill for the rivet nuts.
After drilling and setting a couple of rivet nuts, I secured the clamps on the vertical support so that I could determine the final position of the clamps under the passenger seat.
I drilled and installed a rivet nut in the horizontal tubing behind the passenger seat. I used the measurements from this hole to drill the corresponding hole in the horizontal tubing in front of the passenger seat.
I’m not sure yet whether two clamps under the passenger seat will be sufficient or if I’ll need to add an additional clamp or two. The 3/8″ stainless tubing is pretty stiff, but it sounds like other builders space them closer together (and some state regulations require it).
We’ve had a few flags that I’ve been meaning to put up in the shop, but I needed to move the other wall art, so I kept putting it off. I decided to tackle that today, so I pulled the old decorations off the wall, patched a painted the wall and hung up the flags. The Shelby Cobra flag has the preeminent spot. Partially hidden behind the lift and gas pipe is a Ford Performance flag.
On the other side of the lift, we have our Porsche flag.
I need to transition from the brake master cylinders to the 3/16″ stainless tubing that routes to the front and back of the car. I could have routed the stainless tubing all the way to master cylinders (and that was my original plan), but I decided to keep all flex hose inside the driver’s foot box and transition to the rigid tubing at the front of the foot box. I got started by drilling a couple of 9/16″ holes.
I installed a couple of bulkhead fittings. These have an inverted flare fitting on the forward side…
…and a -03AN fitting on the back side.
I then connected a couple of -3 hoses from the master cylinders to the bulkhead fittings.
I only needed one more line to finish up the front brakes, so I measured and made the first couple of bends to tuck the line behind this bracket and up against the bottom of the square tubing at the top of the picture.
That upper square tubing has a gentle curve to it, so I bent the line to follow it. I’ll ultimately add a clamp of some sort along here to secure this.
Behind the brake/clutch reservoirs, the line bends to line up with the bulkhead fitting.
The upper steering shaft has two flat sides that can only fit into the steering wheel hub two ways, but the steering wheel can install in six different positions. Normally it’s not particularly important how the upper steering shaft is oriented since any misalignment of the steering wheel can easily be adjusted at the tie-rod end during wheel alignment.We’re using
We’re using Russ Thompson’s Turn Signal System which requires machining the hub so that it has protrusions to trip the self-canceling feature of the steering column. This means that the upper steering shaft’s two flat sides need to be oriented vertically when the steering rack is centered. Just my luck that it was oriented exactly 90º out from that. While I might have been able to adjust the tie rods enough to center the steering wheel, I really didn’t want the tie rods adjustment to be that uneven between sides.
Instead, I loosened all of the splined joints and bearings on the steering shaft enough that I could uncouple the upper spline joint (just forward of the driver side foot box) and rotated the upper steering shaft 90º. I then tightened everything back down and installed the steering wheel hub. I fully seated it on the shaft by using the center bolt to draw it down and then tapped the shaft in until the gap between the steering hub and steering column was about 1/8″. Finally, I verified that the self-canceling feature works as expected. All I need to do now is install the steering wheel and the steering system will be complete. I’m going to hold off on installing the steering wheel for a while though to avoid scratching it.
There has been little progress on the car over the last few weeks. Work has been busy and I’ve had a bunch of work to do on several of the other cars in our fleet. I also re-published my RV blog which has been busted for a while and we’ve been swamped with prep for the holidays.
All of that work is done now, so I should be able to start working on the car again.
We also received some tubing clamps from Lodestone BilletWorks. These clamps are for the 3/8″ fuel supply and return lines.
I also ordered a bunch of single, 3/16″ clamps for the rear brake line. I may need more of these because I need to put them closer together because of the smaller size of the tubing.
I also ordered four of these with a 1″ radiused back to support the front brake line where it follows the x-frame.