Forward Brake Line Clamps

I installed four of the single-line 3/16″ clamps from Lodestone BilletWorks to secure the brake line where it crosses the x-frame. These are custom clamps that fit the 2″ diameter tubing. The only unfortunate thing is that the screw holes aren’t drilled perpendicular to the radiused back. This causes the clamp to not want to sit flush with the tubing. There’s enough give that it sorta works out, but these could be better.

Finished Front Brakes

I need to transition from the brake master cylinders to the 3/16″ stainless tubing that routes to the front and back of the car. I could have routed the stainless tubing all the way to master cylinders (and that was my original plan), but I decided to keep all flex hose inside the driver’s foot box and transition to the rigid tubing at the front of the foot box. I got started by drilling a couple of 9/16″ holes.

I installed a couple of bulkhead fittings. These have an inverted flare fitting on the forward side…

…and a -03AN fitting on the back side.

I then connected a couple of -3 hoses from the master cylinders to the bulkhead fittings.

I only needed one more line to finish up the front brakes, so I measured and made the first couple of bends to tuck the line behind this bracket and up against the bottom of the square tubing at the top of the picture.

That upper square tubing has a gentle curve to it, so I bent the line to follow it. I’ll ultimately add a clamp of some sort along here to secure this.

Behind the brake/clutch reservoirs, the line bends to line up with the bulkhead fitting.

Received Tubing Clamps

We also received some tubing clamps from Lodestone BilletWorks. These clamps are for the 3/8″ fuel supply and return lines.

I also ordered a bunch of single, 3/16″ clamps for the rear brake line. I may need more of these because I need to put them closer together because of the smaller size of the tubing.

I also ordered four of these with a 1″ radiused back to support the front brake line where it follows the x-frame.

Parking Brake Cable Routing

I fit the end of the parking brake cables into the caliper. This is the right side, looking forward.

I looped it back up near the upper trunk floor where it’s basically a straight shot to the top of the transmission tunnel.

I routed the other cable the same way and then routed them over the pumpkin to the top right side of the tunnel. I still need to figure out where the bracket and parking brake handle will mount.

Brake/Clutch Reservoir, Brake Lines and Front Strut Reservoirs

I installed the top and inside of the driver side foot box because I was considering installing the brake/clutch reservoir in the top of the foot box to ensure the bottom of the reservoirs were level with or higher than the inlet of the master cylinders. After some careful measurements, I determined I could install them in front of the foot box and meet this criteria. I quickly fabricated a bracket out of some 1/8″ steel plate I had and welded it to the chassis tube.

The triple reservoir bolts to this bracket through the holes visible above. The tops of the caps are even with the top of the chassis tube. I went with a triple reservoir so that there are separate reservoirs for the front and back brakes for redundancy. The left two reservoirs are for the brakes; the right is for the clutch.

I connected the reservoirs to the master cylinders with some EPDM tubing. I didn’t have enough hose clamps to finish this, but I have more on order.

I’ve been trying to make sure that everything is accessible for future maintenance. Although access is easy now, with the body on, the only way to access these screws is from below.

I did the same thing with the hose clamps in the foot box. With the body on and the foot box riveted in place, the only access with either be from below or through this hole. I made sure I could access all of the hose clamps from above before tightening everything down.

With the reservoir and master cylinder plumbing complete, I continued fabricating the hard lines. I welded on the front tabs near the aft end of the holes in the F panels. I’ll finish cleaning up the welds before the chassis is finished.

With the tab welded in place, I wanted to make sure that the brake line didn’t contact theelectric power steering support.

Fortunately, I got lucky and there’s about 1/8″ of clearance here.

I clamped the tubing straightener to the aft end of the chassis so that I could straighten out some pieces of stainless brake tubing.

I started with a fairly short piece of brake line that connects the front left fitting to a tee that will sit on top of the x-frame tubing.

Then bent up a mirror image piece for the other side.

This one runs along the top of the x-frame to the same tee.

A final piece will run from a bulkhead fitting on the front of the driver’s foot box to the other side of this tee.

With the hard lines in place, I installed the fitting in the brake caliper and connected a piece of stainless brake hose.

I then did the same thing on the other side.

Finally, I decided to mount the front strut reservoirs. I decided to clamp the tubing to the screw that is used to secure the strut reservoir. To do that, I need to use a longer clamping screw, but the ones I had have a section without threads near the head. I used a 1/4″ reamer to remove a portion of the threads.

This lets me install the longer screw.

I then welded the steel brackets to the vertical pillars. Excuse the ugly welds, I’ll have to clean these up when the car is disassembled.

I slipped the strut reservoir in place and tightened down the clamping screw. I then used a cushion clamp to secure the hose to the back side of the clamp.

Started Fabricating Rear Brake Line

There will be a single hard line for the rear brakes coming along the left side of the chassis from one of the two brake master cylinders. It will tee somewhere on the left side and run to both rear brakes. I started by fabricating the hard line that will run from the left side of the chassis to the right brake fitting. It runs along the left, upper diagonal and across the aft edge of the reinforcing plate to the right, upper diagonal. It then drops down the right, aft diff support before turning forward to reach the fitting.

Here’s a view from the front side of that fitting looking aft. I haven’t added any clamps to this  tubing yet, but it will not touch any part of the chassis when I do.

Rear Brake Flex Lines

I installed the fittings in the rear brake calipers with some high-temp thread sealant and then spent some time determining where to mount the tab that holds the fitting the other end of the hose screws into. It needs to be in a location that won’t cause the hose to rub on anything as the wheel moves up and down and also provides a convenient location for the hard lines that connect to the other side of the fitting.

I ended up deciding to weld the tabs on the front side of the mount for the rear side of the upper control arm (the other side of the mount from where the remote reservoir is mounted).

Here’s a shot looking backward toward the front side of this mount. The tab is welded flush with the face you see here. The hard line will curve immediately upward from here (to miss the CV joint boot) and follow that angled tubing upward to a point where the hard line can cross to the other side of the car.

Brake Fitting and Strut Reservoir Brackets

The Factory Five kit has rigid brake lines between the master cylinders and each of the wheel wells. At the wheel well, there is a fitting that transitions between the rigid line and a flexible stainless line that runs out to the caliper. This fitting is held in place with a small bracket. The kit only came with two of the brackets (probably because I deleted the brakes from the kit) and they’re stainless. Since I plan on welding the brackets on, I decided to fabricate four new brackets out of mild steel.

I drew up a simple bracket in Autodesk Mechanical and cut them out on the waterjet. It took a couple of tries with different tab size settings and cut speeds until we got four that we were happy with.

I used the disk grinder to sand off the tab and clean up the edges.

I then sandblasted all the rust off.

The parts from FFR have a couple of holes and are riveted to the side of the 3/4″ chassis tubing. Instead of riveting ours on, I put a bend in the brackets so that I can weld them to the top of the 3/4″ tubing.

Here’s one of the bent pieces along with the other three that are ready for bending.

After finishing up the brake fitting brackets, I loaded up the cut path for the bracket I designed to hold the remote strut reservoirs. I’m cutting these out of a piece of 1/2″ 6061 aluminum.

I’m glad I did the brake fitting brackets first since I had plenty of extra steel and could afford to make a couple of mistakes (as I did). For the reservoir brackets, I only had a big enough piece of aluminum to cut the four I need. Fortunately, everything worked perfectly and every piece turned out great.

I designed these with a tab on the left that I can use to clamp the bracket tight around the reservoirs. I also cut a couple of 1/4″ holes in these so that they can bolt to a piece of angle steel that I will weld to the chassis.

I needed to use several tools to drill the holes in the tabs, so I set up a couple of positioning fixtures to assure every piece is clamped in precisely the same location. The part sits on the fixture on the right to align it with the bed; this assures the hole is exactly perpendicular to the tabs. The fixture on the left provides a hard stop to precisely position the part in the X axis (along the bed). The Y location is fixed by the back of the vise which doesn’t move. The vise clamps both the upper and lower portions of the tabs so that there is no movement in the tabs during machining.

I used a center drill to create a small pilot hole in the center of the tab. I then drilled through both parts of the tab with a #7 bit and then through the upper part of the tab with a 1/4″ bit.

Afterward, I use a 3/8″ end mill to create a recess 0.235″ deep.

After threading the lower part of the tab with a 1/4-20 tap, I test fit a 1″ socket head bolt. The socket head bolt fits perfectly in the recess and is flush with the top of the tab. The 1″ bolt is a little long, so I’ll probably use a 3/4″ stainless bolt for the final install.

I sanded the edges smooth and used a drum sander to smooth out the inside of the hole until it’s a slip fit over the reservoir. Afterward, I polished the brackets until they are nearly a mirror finish.

The brackets hold the reservoirs perfectly. They slide over the reservoirs with almost no play and clamp tight with only about 1/2 turn on the bolt.

Steering Linkage, Chassis Mods and Timing Pointer

I installed the EPS brackets and tacked the two pieces of the bracket together and tacked it to the chassis. I’ll finish welding this after pulling the steering linkage off and unscrewing the aluminum F panel.

With the steering linking all bolted into its final location, I tacked the upper coupler to the steering shaft.

I also tacked the lower coupler.

I then TIG welded the couplers all the way around and ground everything smooth. Here’s the upper coupler.

And here’s the lower coupler. I may have these chromed after the chassis comes apart for finishing.

While I was at the TechShop, I fabbed up a piece of 16ga steel to attach the EPS controller to the chassis. The bolts are metric, so the only ones I had on hand were too long. I’ll pick up the right bolts before bolting this in for good.

Since I’m relocating the parking brake, I cut off the bracket that holds the handle. I’ll have to fab up a bracket once I figure out the new location.

I also cut off the bracket that hold the parking brake cables. I really wish I had cut this off before installing the differential; it was a real challenge cutting this off while working around it.

I originally purchased a timing pointer that mounts at the 2 o’clock position, but it turns out that that would be pretty hard to see since we’re using a water pump with a driver side inlet. I replaced that with one that mounts at the 11 o’clock position, but it interferes with a bracket on the Ford timing cover. Ford confirmed that it’s unnecessary, so I cut it off with a cutoff wheel.

After touching up the paint, I installed the pointer and aligned it with the 0º mark.

Pedals and Strut Spacers

I finished adjusting the brake balance bar and adjusted the brake pedal to stop just before hitting the 3/4″ square tube at the top of the picture. Afterward, I adjusted the clutch pedal resting position to be aligned with the brake pedal. I ended up having to cut off about 1/4″ of the threaded shafts on all three master cylinders in order to position the pedals correctly.

After finishing the brake and clutch pedals, I installed the accelerator pedal to the bracket at the front of the foot box. I adjusted the brake and clutch pedal pads to get maximum width and roughly center the brake pedal.

Finally, I installed all of the spacers that I machined last night. Everything fit perfectly, but most of them were pretty tight. Once the spacers and chassis are powder coated, I’m not going to be able to get them in without trimming them a little bit, but that can wait until everything comes apart.